Course Title: Select dyes and develop dye specification and recipe for production

Part B: Course Detail

Teaching Period: Term2 2010

Course Code: MANU5915C

Course Title: Select dyes and develop dye specification and recipe for production

School: 350T Fashion & Textiles

Campus: Brunswick Campus

Program: C5213 - Diploma of Textile Design and Development

Course Contact : Julia Raath

Course Contact Phone: 03 99259201

Course Contact

Name and Contact Details of All Other Relevant Staff

Nominal Hours: 60

Regardless of the mode of delivery, represent a guide to the relative teaching time and student effort required to successfully achieve a particular competency/module. This may include not only scheduled classes or workplace visits but also the amount of effort required to undertake, evaluate and complete all assessment requirements, including any non-classroom activities.

Pre-requisites and Co-requisites

It is strongly advised that students complete the following units prior to enrolling in MANU 5915C Select dyes and develop dye specification and recipe for production

MKTG 5756C  Identify fibres, yarns & textile
VART 5902C   Identify fibres and fabrics
OHTH 5451C  Implement and monitor OH&S 


Course Description

This unit covers the skills and knowledge associated with selecting, developing and testing dyes, chemical and auxiliaries and developing dye specifications and recipes for the dyeing of textiles for self and others. Textile materials for which dye specifications are developed include fibres, yarns and fabrics, and tasks may involve individual and group activities.

National Codes, Titles, Elements and Performance Criteria

National Element Code & Title:

LMTTX4004A Select dyes and develop dye specification and recipe for production


1 Identify properties of textile

Performance Criteria:

1.1 Specifications and or sample of textile material product is confirmed with originator and client
1.2 End use and performance standards expected of finished product are clarified and determined with appropriate personnel
1.3 Sample is analysed to determine type and composition using appropriate techniques, if required


2 Perform preliminary selection and evaluation of dyes

Performance Criteria:

2.1 Preliminary selection of dyes and chemicals and auxiliaries is undertaken with reference to specifications and or previous product dyeing references
2.2 Expected textile production and reproduction processes are identified based on preliminary dye selection and appropriate personnel advised
2.3 Preliminary dye selection is determined for the sample of textile
2.4 Dye selections and specification and recipe are trailed using laboratory-based production facilities and results evaluated against requirements of originator and client, as required
2.5 Dye selection and recipe is reviewed, and re-developed and re-tested as required
2.6 Approval of preliminary dye specification by originator and client is sought prior to implementing limited production run


3 Perform final selection and evaluation of dyes and specification and recipe

Performance Criteria:

3.1 Sampling and testing techniques are selected appropriate to evaluation of product during limited production run
3.2 Tests are implemented using established enterprise procedures and quality standards
3.3 Results are analysed and preliminary dye selection and recipe reviewed, modified and re-tested as required
3.4 Dye selection checked against original client specifications and requirements and enterprise production process and requirements
3.5 Approval of colour specification by originator and client is sought prior to implementing bulk production run
3.6 Environmental requirements and procedures concerned with waste, pollution, storage and recycling of materials are correctly applied at all stages of the process


4 Prepare final dye specification and recipe

Performance Criteria:

4.1 Samples from bulk production run are tested using appropriate techniques
4.2 Results are analysed and dye recipe reviewed, modified and re-tested as required
4.3 Dye specification and recipe is developed, checked and filed in accordance with workplace requirements and industry and quality standards
4.4 Reports and documentation are prepared
4.5 Dye specification and recipe is monitored to ensure continuity and repeatability of colour and test results

Learning Outcomes

On completion of this course students will be able to demonstrate skills and knowledge to identify the correct dye class for a given fibre, to formulate appropriate dye recipes and to successfully apply the dye to fibre, yarn or fabric in accordance with correct OHS procedures.

Details of Learning Activities

Blended learning, consisting of classroom activities, practical workshops, individual and group presentations. Individual preparation of a comprehensive technical folio of dye samples.

Workshop sessions will be undertaken in a dye laboratory simulating an industry environment.

Teaching Schedule

Week 1: Introduction. Discussion of technical folio requirements and OH&S issues. Tour dye laboratory. View audio visual Textile Colouration. Task: complete Textile Colouration Quiz
Week 2: Landscapes Dyes using wool and silk fabrics. Introduction to Shibori principles. Task: Preparation of technical folio of dye samples
Week 3: Acid Milling using wool and silk fabric. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples
Week 4: Procion cold water dye bath using cotton fabric. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples

Week 5: Disperse Dyes using Polyester & Polyester Blends. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples
Week 6: Modified Basic Dyes using Acrylic & Acrylic Blends. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples
Week 7: Direct Dyes using Viscose fabric. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples.
Week 8: Skein Dyeing using Cotton, Wool, Polyester yarn. Review Technical folio of dye samples
Week 9: ‘3 fabrics’ dyeing Assignment. Task: Record information for ‘3 fabrics’ report. Investigate one source of natural dye stuff.
Week 10: Natural Dyes & Mordants using wool & silk fabrics. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples.
Week 11: Natural Dyes using wool & silk. Shibori techniques continued and exploration of leaf clamping and hapa-zome techniques. Task: Ongoing preparation of folio of dye samples. Task: Introduce Client Project
Week 12: Prepare a report investigating one source of natural dye stuff. Finalise ‘3 fabrics’ dyeing assignment report. Prepare client profile for Client Project.
Week 13: Conduct Client Project trial dyeing. Submit written report of selected fabric dyeing process.
Week 14: Conduct Client Project.
Week 15: Lanasol Painting using Wool and Silk fabric. Heat set using the Steamer
Week 16: Procion Painting using Cotton and Silk. Heat set using the steamer
Week 17: Final Presentation to group of client project and Assessment

Learning Resources

Prescribed Texts


References: The New Textiles: Trends and Traditions, Chloe Colchester, Thames and Hudson; Structure & Surface, Contemporary Japanese Textiles, Museum of Modern Art, NY; On Colour, Tricia Guild, Conran Octopus; Dyes and Fabrics, Joyce Storey, Thames and Hudson; Techno Textiles Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, Braddock and O’Mahony, Thames and Hudson; Designers Guide to Colour No 2, Angus and Robertson, Sydney; Complex Cloth, Jane Dunnewold, Fibre Studio Press. Bothell, USA; Fabric Dyeing and Printing, Kate Wells,

Other Resources

Magazines: Fibre Arts; Shuttle Spindle and Dyepot; Textile Fibre Forum
Audio Visual: Textile Colouration; The Language of Colour Science Press USA

Overview of Assessment

To achieve successful completion of this course students must demonstrate an understanding of all elements of Competency.

Assessment methods have been designed to measure achievement of each competency in a flexible manner over a range of assessment tasks.

Assessment will incorporate a variety of methods including in-class exercises, quizzes, written reports, documentation of technical requirements, practical problem solving exercises and practical applications of knowledge. As well as in-class activities you will be required to undertake research and assessment practice outside of regular class time and participate in formal assessment tasks.

Detailed course information and assessment requirements will be available in the first week of class. Specific details will be explained during scheduled classes.

Students are advised that they are required to personally demonstrate their assessment work to their teacher to ensure that the relevant competency standards are being met.

Work that has not been authenticated during class as students own work will not be considered for assessment.


Assessment Tasks

Textile Colouration Quiz. A question and answer overview of textile colouration, to be completed by students for in-class review.

‘3 fabrics’ dyeing process and written report. A piece of fabric will be allocated in class and each student is expected to dye it to a pre-determined colour. Each student is to select the appropriate dyes and chemicals required to successfully dye the fabric to the desired colour using the most appropriate method learnt in this semester. The process used to produce the end result must be documented and described precisely in a written report covering what was done and why it was done that way.

Report on a source of natural dyes. Students select a natural dye stuff to investigate and research. Relevant research including history, illustrations and examples are to be included in an introductory 1 page report. Individual reports to be compiled into a class wiki.

Observation Checklist. Ongoing observation of Occupational Health and Safety demonstrating that set tasks, equipment maintenance and clean up are conducted by each student in accordance with OH&S practices

Client Project. In collaboration with a selected client each student is required to conduct a series of dye tests towards achieving a specified colour and complete a written report, including dye recipes, procedures and specifications.

Technical Folio of dye samples A comprehensive folio is to be presented neatly, clearly and concisely showing all class notes collected during the semester together with correctly labelled samples for all different dyes. Any additional notes and further research undertaken is to be included.

Assessment Matrix



’3 fabrics’ dyeing

Technical Folio of
Dye Samples

Select dyes and
develop dye
specification and
recipe for

      x       x    x       x      x
Perform preliminary
Selection and
Evaluation of dyes

        x    x       x
Perform final selection
and evaluation of dyes
and specification and
       x    x       x      x
Prepare final dye
Specification and recipe
     x   x     x     x 

Other Information

All ungraded assessments must be completed to a competent standard to be eligible for grading and work that has not been authenticated during class as your own will not be considered for assessment.
Graded Assessment will be based on the levels of performance as outlined in the Client Project rubric.

This unit may be assessed independently or in combination with other relevant unit.

Students are expected to comply with Workplace Occupational Health and Safety policies and procedures and are expected to wear fully covered shoes, gloves, lab coats, and dust masks where necessary during laboratory sessions.

Course Overview: Access Course Overview