Course Title: Grade shaped patterns

Part B: Course Detail

Teaching Period: Term1 2013

Course Code: GRAP5248C

Course Title: Grade shaped patterns

School: 350T Fashion & Textiles

Campus: Brunswick Campus

Program: C5220 - Diploma of Applied Fashion Design and Technology

Course Contact : Mandy Penton

Course Contact Phone: +61 3 99259202

Course Contact

Name and Contact Details of All Other Relevant Staff

Hoa Pham
03 99259237

Sandra Benson
03 99259136


Nominal Hours: 60

Regardless of the mode of delivery, represent a guide to the relative teaching time and student effort required to successfully achieve a particular competency/module. This may include not only scheduled classes or workplace visits but also the amount of effort required to undertake, evaluate and complete all assessment requirements, including any non-classroom activities.

Pre-requisites and Co-requisites

LMTFD4013B - Grade 2D patterns

Course Description

The unit applies to the allometric grading of 3D or shaped patterns for garments where the focus is on taking into account differences in body growth for a specialised fit.

National Codes, Titles, Elements and Performance Criteria

National Element Code & Title:

LMTFD5016B Grade shaped patterns


1. Analyse size of market

Performance Criteria:

1.1 Market is researched for averages and differences.
1.2 Body growth o f target market is analysed.
1.3 Data of target market is collected for measurement table.
1.4 Appropriate base size is selected.
1.5 Appropriate grading methodology is selected.


2. Develop a shaped grade plan

Performance Criteria:

2.1 Design brief and specifications are interpreted.
2.2 Target market and intended purpose of design is
discussed and clarified with designer.
2.3 Measurement table is analysed.
2.4 Growth of circumference and length increments is
identified and size table is constructed.
2.5 Base pattern pieces are identified.
2.6 Grade points are allocated.
2.7 Grade rule table is constructed.


3. Grade pattern

Performance Criteria:

3.1 Stacking or outlay requirements, including direction are
3.2 Pattern is graded manually using patternmaking technical
skills or by computer, according to OHS practices .
3.3 If stacking, stack points or lines are identified.
3.4 Integrity of pattern attributes is preserved during grading.
3.5 All pattern pieces are accurately labelled with all
necessary pattern marking symbols .
3.6 Pattern is checked for accuracy and appropriate action
taken, if necessary.


4. Prepare portfolio

Performance Criteria:

4.1 Shaped patterns and markers are prepared and
presented in preparation for production.
4.2 Specification documents are prepared as required.


5. Maintain records

Performance Criteria:

5.1 Records are maintained and documentation completed.
5.2 Patterns are filed.

Learning Outcomes

The learner will be required to develop the knowledge and skills associated with problem solving and planning and organising to determine size and grading requirements and select base pattern. Communication and numeracy skills are used to analyse and determine required pattern information and complete pattern documentation. Self management skills are used to ensure conformance of grading to quality standards and market requirements.

Details of Learning Activities

Practical workshops in a simulated work setting using a computer aided pattern system (Gerber or Lectra).
Activities will include use of appropriate hardware including digitiser & full-scale and scaled printers and plotters.
Work will follow industry practices, incorporating all of the required learning outcomes.

Teaching Schedule

Week 1:
Review of semester 1 patternmaking
Introduction to course
Assessment breakdown
Review of grading – master grade method
Exercise on co-ordinates (mapping an asterisk)
Students to fill in master (nest) grade plan for basic blocks
Quick demo of computer aided grading
Submission of skirt, bodice & pant grade plans into: (I:Student\TEXTILES\_Share\Fashion_DROPBOX\Teacher’s name\Group name\Student name……)

Week 2 & 3:
Grading functions:
Basic skirt block, Bodice Blocks, Pant Block
• Need to have grade plans with you BEFORE grading on screen
• Swap with a partner and check each other’s work
• Grading on screen
• Grading of basic blocks on screen
• Basic blocks - mini plot of base size and graded nest

Week 4:
 Group 1
Digitise Skirt Style C4702
Skirt style – C4702
• Develop a grade plan (Students to note: C4702 is asymmetrical (pocket flap on one side only) & zip notch gets graded)
• Grade skirt style – C4702
• Demo of sheet selection (Lectra only)
• Check graded nest on screen – refer to your grade plans
• Create a Model for C4702
• Create a Variant (Lectra only)
• Enter cutting & fabric information
• Fill in Pattern specification sheet
• Skirt style C4702 - mini plot of graded nest
Group 2
Shirt style – C7501
• Develop a grade plan Grade skirt style – C7501
• Demo of sheet selection (Lectra only)
• Check graded nest on screen – refer to your grade plans
• Create a Model for C7501
• Create a Variant (Lectra only)
• Enter cutting & fabric information
• Fill in Pattern specification sheet
Shirt style C7501 -mini plot of graded nest

Week 5, 6 & 7:
Marker making process using Marker Making software
• Trial of marker making using the skirt style C4702
• 1 x Sample marker for Base Size – Ratio x 3 (Fabric: 150cm wide – including selvedge)
• 1 x Production marker - ratio (1:2:2:1) – 2 way fabric (150cm wide – including selvedge)
• Fill in marker making sheet
Plotting/ printing Marker
• mini plot of marker

Week 8:
Marker making of shirt style:
1 x Sample marker (115cm wide)
1 x Production marker - ratio (1:1:1:1) – 2 way fabric (115cm including selvedge)
Fill in marker making sheet

Week 9:
Assessment task 1 : Vest Style Grading
• Develop a grade plan Grade Vest style – C708
• Check graded nest on screen – refer to your grade plans
• Create a Model for C708
• Create a Variant (Lectra only)
• Enter cutting & fabric information
• Fill in Pattern Specification sheet
• Fill in Marker making Specification sheet

Week 10 & 11:
Dress Style Grading
Marker Making of Dress style
Week 12 & 13:
 Pant style grade
Marker making of Pant style

Week 14:

Week 15:
Assessment Task 2- Computer Grading & Marker Making Test

Week 16:
Assessment /Feedback session

Learning Resources

Prescribed Texts


Catherine Black. Modaris, Diamino, and JustPrint for Apparel Design. Fairchild, 2007
Sharp, Julia Ridgway. Introduction to AccuMark, pattern design, and product data management.New York : Fairchild Publications, c2007.
Jane D. Espinoza-Alvarado Computer aided fashion design using Gerber technology / Jane D. Espinoza-Alvarado. New York : Fairchild, 2007.

Other Resources

Overview of Assessment

Detailed course and assessment requirements and information will be made available to you first week of class. Specific details will be explained to you during scheduled classes.

This course comprises both practical and theory components. You will be expected to attend and participate in class activities.

As well as class activities you will be required to undertake research and assessment practice outside of regular class times and participate in formal assessment tasks.

PLEASE NOTE: work that has not been authenticated during class as your own work will not be considered for assessment.

Assessment Tasks

To ensure the development of a range of skills to meet competency requirements, students need to successfully complete all assessment tasks.
Work must be completed to industry standard to be deemed competent in this course and receive a pass grade.
Students will be eligible to receive a grade higher then a pass on successful submission of all assessment tasks on the due dates and based on quality of work submitted.

 Assessment Task 1: 50%

Assessment Task 2 : 50%

 In circumstances where a student is not able to attend assessment tasks, a doctor’s certificate must be provided, unless a student has had approval for an extension via a "Special Consideration" OR an "Extension of Time for Assessable Work" application.

Assessment Matrix


 Assessment Task 1Assessment Task 2
1. Analyse size of marketvv
2. Develop a shaped grade planvv
3. Grade patternvv
4. Prepare portfoliovv
5. Maintain recordsvv

Course Overview: Access Course Overview